Part two… Days 1-9 (for your convenience, run-ins with new people are in caps for easy scanning) LONDON 6 a.m. on a Tuesday morning. 20 degrees Celsius and I’d imagine it would be sunny and beautiful if the sun had risen. Athens. I have been in Greece less than an hour and already a cab driver is trying to rip me off. And pick me up, all at the same time. Amazing. Does he think charging me 3,500 drachmas for a 1,500 drachma ride is going to charm me? I trudge down the familiar brothel-lined street (empty at this hour) to my apartment, weighted down with a 22 kilo bag, exhausted. I run for my bed and collapse. I have been traveling since 8 p.m. I have gotten no sleep. My ears nearly exploded at 30,000 miles above Germany. They still hurt. But instead of sinking into a long sleep, I jump back up again and decide to scrub the kitchen clean. It appears my roommate has decided to explode things on the stove and leave standing coffee dishwater to coagulate in my absence. When that is done, I rearrange furniture. I move my desk from the “study” into a corner of my bedroom. I push the bed up into a corner and shove a makshift bookshelf against the opposite wall. I fill it with all my new books and CDs and tapes, shunning some of my formerly displayed embarrassing titles to the closet. Yay. Now I look somewhat intelligent. Finally, at 9 a.m., I lay down. I wake up at 3 p.m. Things are different now that I have returned after a three-week absence. It’s hard to explain, or understand myself for that matter. When I left, I was depressed, restless, filled with silly fantasies of finding a niche elsewhere and never coming back. I had spent the week prior to departure holed up in my room, trying to finish a magazine assignment but unable to do so, eating nothing but pretzels and jelly beans my parents had recently brought over in mass quantities from the States. I was frustrated and annoyed at my roommate. I was even more annoyed at the anti-social misfit I had somehow become. I had lost sight of who I was and what the hell I was doing here. Maybe this isn’t the best way to start a swinging tale of fun and adventure in sinisterland. But perhaps it explains my motivations for up and flying to a foreign country to spend a few weeks with practical strangers. I left Oct. 1 with no ticket back. I was going to let fate have its way with me. Or maybe I just didn’t want to think about returning, hoping I might not. Silly girl. At any rate, it was quite liberating. So I arrive Oct. 1 after a truly hellish charter flight - four hours cramped between two big men, the blaring sound of propeller and engine sending me into a aural stupor, so exhausted I couldn’t keep my eyes open, yet also could not sleep. Then an hour at customs, only to get on the wrong train into the city and end up halfway to Luton before getting off and waiting another half hour for a delayed train in the other direction. After bragging to Paul about my impeccable sense of direction and knack for finding my way around anywhere, I call him two hours late from Blackfriar’s station. I still have another 20-minute journey on the tube to his place. He doubts I will make it and laughs when I insist I will be there shortly. I finally make it without any further delays to Clapham North, only to realize I lost my ticket somewhere along the way and cannot get out. I walk over and smile sweetly to the attendant, acting lost and dumb and hopelessly American and he just shakes his head and opens the special gate for elderly, disabled and dumb people. I call Paul again and as he comes to retrieve me, it starts to rain and I watch as several people search the ground for cigarette butts. Paul arrives and takes my bag (what a gentleman! Bless him) and doesn’t rail me too much about my farcical attempts at getting there. When we get to his flat, he makes me toast and a Nescafe frappe (Bless him again!) and we just sit for a bit. Eventually we head back out to the city. We go to… um… the trendy place where Rough Trade is located. Oh dear, I’m hopeless. Anyway, we go to Rough Trade. Then we go to a pub for a pint. We sit outside and I tell stories of dead pets and near kidnappings and mafia-owned Tex-Mex restaurants in Bulgaria. After about five sips of beer I am loopy, what with not having slept or eaten much for 36 hours. We walk around a bit, and head for a row of electronics store, where Paul looks for a ghetto blaster for his kitchen (since he is SO secretly ghetto). We also went book shopping and Paul guided me into buying some thick, depressing, intellectual books. We returned home with our purchases and had some pizza. Had a mini Snood tournament. Then we went out to meet NICHOLAS at a nearby pub. Nicholas had a lovely accent and was wearing a suit, much to my delight. I was half expecting a mournful, intimidating character, what with all his thoughtful prose and deep thoughts, but he was really pleasant and easy to get along with. A lovely boy all around really. We played on the pub quiz machine for a bit, then moved onto another trendy pub down the road. We all bought a round, meaning I managed to consume three pints by the time we parted. It may not seem like a lot, but for a girl who gets silly after one half-litre bottle of Amstel and who hasn’t slept, it was a miracle I hadn’t passed out. Paul and I returned to his flat and sat around his living room taking shots of brandy and a painfully strong Greek liquor tsipoura. We stayed up late into the morning talking about life, the universe and everything. In many ways, it was an extension of what we had been writing each other in emails all this time, but for some reason I never expected to be able to voice such things in real life. It was fantastic. Sleep was fantastic as well. There was a slight chill in the air - I had been longing for autumn weather; it was 30 degrees when I left Greece - and it was so comforting to curl up under a duvet and drift in and out of sleep in a lazy way. I woke up early and started reading one of my new books, snuggled up warm while rain gently fell against the window. Mmmm. Then I dressed and got ready to meet DAFYD at Waterloo. I got only a little lost this time, taking a tour of the streets around Waterloo trying to find the main station. Actually, my little walk later worked to my advantage, as I was able to lead the way back to the station and impress Dafyd with my impeccable sense of direction - ha! At least I impressed someone. Dafyd and I met and set off for the Tate Modern, skirting the shores of the Thames. It had stopped raining; the sun was shining and it was perfect weather. I even took off my coat. Daf was adorable and we chatted away. Lovely. The Tate was fantastic, except we only had enough time to visit one floor before returning to Waterloo to pick up JAMES. James was great as well - soft-spoken but not totally shy. And he was practical and decisive and took charge, which was also great since both Daf and I are lost and indecisive. We attempted to go to a pub at the station, but it had stopped serving food, so James suggested we go to Greenwich and have a picnic. So we bought sandwiches and drinks at Boots and followed James to a train. Greenwich was lovely! We headed directly to the park, which was quite beautiful, and climbed to the top of a rather steep little hill to the Royal Observatory. It afforded a nice view of the city, and Daf and James attempted to point out places of interest, but were pretty hopeless as tour guides. No matter. We sat on a bench near the site of many former sinister picnics and talked about (what else) sinister characters and activities. We left as it became chilly and had a pint at a nearby pub. We left at 5:30 - rush hour, perfect - and had to take a random route back, through Canary Wharf - the city’s largest skyscraper. We actually accidentally stumbled into the foyer of the posh hotel there - a group of grungy kids in cords among well-pressed, perfumed suits. We giggled and hurried down some stairs to an underground mall and, eventually, tube station. I got back to Paul’s a bit late, and felt badly since I had promised to cook him dinner and sent him off earlier with a shopping list. I quickly whipped up some pasta and we scarfed it down and ran out to meet Nicholas in Soho. We walked around a bit and found a pub, where we settled down for the evening and had another three pints. I was practically wrecked by the time we left, and even talked politics with Nicholas. Eek! Returned home, had another late-night chat over wine, got up at 11 and had a lazy morning watching trashy American talk shows and bad British soaps. We headed out at 2 to meet Nicholas and ELENA in Camden. We went to a CD store, where I bought some awful cheese tapes, and influenced Nicholas to buy some as well. Then we headed to a pub to get a bite to eat. Elena left just as it started to downpour, and we left shortly afterwards, running to a bank and then to a record company where Paul had an appointment. We went to another pub, chatted about music and took over the jukebox. Two pints later, I set off to meet the notorious KEN CHU at the tube station. Ken was adorable, of course. He was wearing a red sweater and jeans and was practically bouncing as we said hello and hugged. We walked around looking for a place to eat and settled on a pizzeria/restaurant near the pub I had just left. It was actually quite nice, and Ken treated me - what a gentleman! Girls, beware. We chatted and gossiped loads, then went across the street to another pub, where he bought me my first ever vodka and Red Bull. I was pretty drunk at this point, and as a gin and tonic arrived at the table, I could not shut up. We talked about tons of things, some serious, most not. We left as the pub closed and hurried to the station to make sure Ken could catch the train back to Milton Keynes. We promised to meet back up again at the end of the trip for DDR. Ken wanted to walk me all the way home - did I mention what a sweetheart he is yet? - but settled on a phone call when I got back. I forgot to call, of course, so he did. Aww. I harassed a very tired Paul with my silly drunken chatter and insults, but made it up to him the next morning when I made a fantastic batch of home fries (little cubes of potatoes, fried with onions and garlic and oregano and rosemary for non-Yanks). We watched more bad TV until it was time for me to pack up and make my way to King’s Cross to catch a train to Edinburgh. I got there JUST in time. I am the sort of person who is usually early for everything. But now living on the edge, I was, and it was great. EDINBURGH Four hours later, I arrived in Edinburgh. WILL and JEREMY met me at the station and there were big hugs all around. Will and I walked back to his flat. We sat on his couch and chatted for a bit, then went to the supermarket, where I bought ingredients for dinner and breakfast as well as pretzels (Will had never tried them!) and Jaffa cakes (I had never tried them). When we got back I made pasta with homemade tomato sauce and we looked at photos. Then we headed out to a ritzy vodka bar to meet Jeremy. We sat for awhile sipping strong, expensive, White Russians, listening to cheesy music and watching girls in tight trousers and tops trying to pull. I was amused. Will was anxious. Jeremy eventually arrived, a little late, and we quickly left to go to The Last Drop, a less trendy, more comfortable, pub down the street. I had a few pints and began to get quite drunk and very silly. Afterwards we went in search of a chip shop - specifically for a famed fried Mars bar. We found one, sans fried Mars bars, and got chips and cheese instead. It was the beginning of my new addiction. It was quite a hike and I could hardly walk - my vision was blurred and I was quite… bad. We headed back to Will’s after a failed attempt to locate Jeremy’s friend and a short stop at an Australian theme pub where a guy was painting the exterior at 2 a.m. Back at the flat, I got even sillier. There were tickle fights. There were dumb jokes that were somehow hilarious. And poking. It seemed to go on for hours. Eventually, we admitted defeat and went to bed. Will only had one spare bed - a cozy double - so Jeremy and I shared it. That’s all. We stayed up a little longer chatting then both passed out until morning, when all three of us woke up at an ungodly hour - like 8 or something. Both Will and Jeremy were hurting, but for some reason I was happy and chipper and silly as ever. Maybe I was still drunk? Hmm. At any rate, Will and I made toast and honey, watched some television and listened to some music while Jeremy passed out again. Then we dragged him out of bed and ventured into town, stopping at John Lewis department store for an electrical adaptor for my mobile and at a café for some coffee and snacks. Then we made the long walk to the botanical gardens. We saw some swans and considered harassing them, but instead just stood and stared for a bit in a weary stupor. Our next stop was a park bench, where we watched clouds making a menacing approach. It eventually spurred us into action. We wandered around a bit, through ‘copses’ and into a beautiful Chinese garden. Along the way, I serenaded the boys with my fabulous rendition of old skool classic “Mona Lisa” by Slick Rick, my favorite rap song ever. I also demonstrated my amazingly high kicking abilities and swayed around the spectacular breezes. Yes, I must have been drunk. As we left the park, I became convinced that I needed a pint. So we headed for a pub in the city and I had a pint and nachos (woo hoo! Something you CANNOT get in Athens). The pint had the opposite effect on me than what I had hoped. I sunk down motionless as a rag doll, so tired I wanted to pass out. I could hardly walk. I decided there was nothing I wanted more than to lay in the grass. I reluctantly went accompanied the boys to the train station information center to make accommodation reservations for Glasgow, then happily waltzed into a nearby park, where I collapsed on the lush green lawn, getting a bit muddy in the process. It was glorious, and perked me right up. Jeremy left shortly afterwards to return to his friend’s house and shower and things. Will and I headed back as well, and I took a long nap, then a shower. The three of us went out again that night, starting at The Last Drop for a pint or two, then to a chippy for a fried Mars bar (I was determined to try one!). This trip was successful. Woo hoo! But the result was not that exciting. I remembered that I don’t particularly like Mars bars in normal form, and it didn’t improve much with batter and melty gooiness. But the chippy guy was very friendly, saying he hoped to see me again soon. Woo hoo! Score! Ha. Afterwards, we went to another pub, an Irish one. We packed it in early and parted with Jeremy. Will and I stayed up pretty late chatting, and I woke up pretty late the next morning. Had breakfast, packed, and went to the train station, where we met Jeremy and headed off to Glasgow. GLASGOW Upon arrival in Glasgow, Jeremy and I took a taxi to the bed and breakfast we stayed at for three days and Will remained at the station to meet SUNNYSET RACHEL. The B+B was great. The owners, Kenny and Ann, were super friendly and very Scottish. They gave us a huge room with a double and single bed and a million chairs and asked if we were in a rock band or something. Oh yes, we look so rawkin! After dropping off our stuff, we headed into the city to The 13th Note Café, where Will and Rachel were waiting. We got some veggie burgers and chatted a bit. Rachel was so great! Super quiet but adorable. I was determined to become her friend. GAVIN came in a bit later with Lee from Camera Obscura. He mumbled something and rushed off, a bit stressed and pre-occupied with show arrangements I think. They later came back and joined us for a veggie burger and drinks. Eventually, RICHARD, ALLY and CAREY joined us as well. It was almost overwhelming meeting everyone at once. We switched to a bigger table in the corner near a window, where we sat and chatted for a bit. Ally was very friendly and chatty in an adorable, silly way. Carey was quiet but also friendly. Rich was pretty quiet, but inserted little witty gems into conversation at the appropriate moments. Squished into a corner, I didn’t do much but sit quietly and watch. SWEETIE joined us, annoyed at her travel schedule, but still adorable, and then HONEY and LINDA. Yay! I wasn’t sure they would show, but was very excited they did! Honey was absolutely fabulous. We didn’t get much chance to talk, or even hug, until later, but then we chatted away like birds. Honey was super popular, of course. It was great. We went downstairs for the afternoon Dudley Corporation gig. Met JOSS briefly, who was so sweet and giddy and later did an amazing job drumming for not both Joan of Arse AND Dudley Corp. Amazing really. Didn’t meet DUDLEY until later, and only briefly, to introduce myself basically. The show was pretty nice. I spent half of it on the floor, half of it nursing a beer by myself in the back of the room. Had a HARRY sighting, not realizing it was him till later. Damn. GORDON joined us halfway through the set. Afterwards, we all gathered upstairs again at the same table and had a pint to pass the time before the evening Dudley Corp. gig at the university post-graduate lounge. We headed out in the chill drizzle to get chips and took taxis to the university. We were the first people there. The place was so much posher than I think any of us expected. It was quite nice. We took over a huge table and got cheap beers from the bar. Gordon made some new friends with a handful of international students who came in later. The gig was actually part of an international students welcome party actually. We were given all sorts of free things, like raffle tickets, slippery Jack Daniels coasters and balloons, which we of course inflated and lobbed around, much to the dismay of Honey, Carey and a few unfortunate nearby students, who all braced themselves for horrifying bursting noises. Eventually we moved upstairs to another packed lounge to watch the gig. Will and Rachel had to leave early to catch trains home. CALUMN came in towards the end of the Joan of Arse set. He was as silly and fun as I expected and after the gig was over and Gavin started spinning records he proved to be quite the suave dancer. Oh yes. Calumn, Jeremy, Ally and I all danced like lunatics, taking care not to shake the floor too much, however, because it kept skipping the records. At some point, I found out through Honey that my pen pal of four years, Ian, was there as well. So we went in search of him, and found him downstairs by the doors. It was so random and odd! But great! Turns out, he was actually president of the group that kept up the lounge or something, so had to be off doing things half the time, but we managed to chat in between dancing and errands and made plans to meet up the next day. The music stopped at 2 a.m. so Jeremy and I headed back to the B+B. Woke up early the next day, but dozed on and off for a few hours before heading down alone to breakfast, where Kenny and Ann chatted with me and I discovered lemon curd. Yum. Jeremy came down and we hung around a bit, then Ian came to pick us up at 1. He drove us out to the surrounding countryside, stopping at a park, where we took a lovely long walk through the drizzle. There was live traditional music coming from a nearby outdoor concert and it followed us halfway through the park. Archers crossed our path, and elderly people set up watercolor sets all around. Other couples in boots walked dogs and a few children splashed around. I walked through mud and kicked around leaves. It was so wonderful and reminded me of autumn in New England. We saw some shaggy freakish Highland cows, which Ian and Jeremy insisted I pet. So I reached out to pet the forehead of one particularly large cow, and it whipped its horn around to whack my hand away. Jesus. We later walked to the remains of a castle and back to the car around a pond. Then we headed out to Loch Lommand through some gorgeous countryside and had lunch at an adorable pub in a small village. Ian dropped us off in the center of the city and we met up with Sweetie at the bus station and headed back to the Note. We bought some drinks and chatted. Rich joined us and we attempted to play some songs on the jukebox, but never heard them. Sweetie had to catch a bus, so we walked her to the station through the pouring rain, stopping briefly to buy chips and wine. After seeing her off, we headed to Rich’s new apartment for a game of Scrabble. I had challenged him to a game months ago, building myself up as a Scrabble champ. We sat on the floor, sopping wet, each with our own bottle of wine, listening to Scott Walker swoon away. I started out doing quite well, but I deteriorated rather quickly in ratio with the amount of wine consumed, to the point where I couldn’t concentrate on forming any words at all. And Rich pulled out some terrific words, like JOWLS on a double letter and triple word score, for more than 60 points. Who can compete with that? We played two games before I wholeheartedly acknowledged defeat (an afterthought really, considering I lost by more than 100 points). To his credit, Rich didn’t gloat much. What a guy. Took a taxi back to the B+B. Slept in rather late. Somewhere along the way, America decided to declare war on Afghanistan. I read about it a little in the newspaper at breakfast, but decided not to dwell on it. How responsible of me. We had to switch to a smaller room, and Kenny spent at least 10 minutes raving to me about how fantastic the bed’s springs were, even going so far as to lift the mattress to show me. Oh dear. We headed into the city and met Rich briefly at Avalanche Records, before he had to go to school to do some work. We went to an internet café, then headed to the bus station to get a ticket to Leeds, stopping at a few shoe and clothing stores along the way. Then we headed out to the West End for a bite to eat. Sure, why not? We ended up at the Grosvenor Café, a required stop for any B&S pilgrim as it is where they met. Ooh. It was like an old-fashioned American diner. I had a fab sandwich, then we headed back into the city center. Gav called and invited us over to his for dinner, so we took a taxi there. I met his girlfriend Jo and her sister Lynn who were both super friendly and fab! They gave me huge hugs and kisses and made me feel totally welcome. I love them! Then I met YOKOJO as well, who was also nice and a fantastic doll maker. Amazing. Gav made some fabulous pasta and was super chatty. It was great! Then we piled into his car and headed out to a low-key bar, where we got a semi-private little room and talked about films. Calumn, Sweetie and Rich joined us. We eventually parted ways and there were huge hugs all around. Had to get up early to check out and catch a bus to Leeds. Actually made it in time for real breakfast for the first time and Ann was amazed and teased us about it. Got a taxi to the station and said our farewells. to be continued... ~dahling _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ +---+ Brought to you by the Sinister mailing list +---+ To send to the list mail sinister@missprint.org. 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