Sinister: Same same but different
Stuart Gardiner
stugardiner at xxx.com
Tue May 25 15:29:47 BST 2004
So B&S are indie veterans now then? I remember when they were newcomers. I
really must have been on here too long.
OK, so I send a great long email to sinister about Tibet, get quite a few
interesting replies, and don't get anywhere near my email for two weeks. So,
sorry everyone...
So not everyone agreed with me. And others did. That's fine. To be expected.
I did present a bit of a one-sided view - probably more enthusisastic
towards the Chinese than I actually believe myself? - but the important
thing was to present the other side of the story to what you normally hear.
Hope I managed that at least. You're right - things aren't perfect in Tibet,
most notably the lack of freedom, as elsewhere in China. I just don't like
being constantly told in the West that it's an open-and-shut case whether
things are good or bad in Tibet, when really it's a lot more complicated
than that. Whatever the Beastie Boys might like us to think... I also don't
like the idea that China must be a bad thing for Tibet, because of what
their leaders did 40 years ago, when the destruction of monasteries and
killing of monks etc actually happened. Let's face it, I wouldn't like it if
people started having a go at me because of what the British government did
in the days of the Empire before I was even born (and that has happened
several times while I've been travelling...)
On another note, a few people were asking me to explain a bit about what's
going on in Nepal right now, since it's not been reported much in the West.
So, if you don't care, skip this bit...
About 5 years ago, most of the royal family were murdered. According to the
official palace version, the crown prince went mad because he wasn't allowed
to marry the woman he loved, so he got an automatic weapon out and massacred
all the royals present. And then killed himself. His uncle, who was
conveniently absent (along with his son) at another palace in Pokhara,
became king. So far, so good. Except, if the crown prince was firing an
automatic weapon around the room, how come not one security guard was
injured? And how did he manage to shoot himself in the left-hand side of his
head, with an automatic weapon, when he's right-handed? And how did the only
other member of the royal family not present, the prince's sister, die in a
terrible helicopter crash two weeks later in which the pilot was un-injured?
The only thing anyone knows for sure is that the official version is a load
of rubbish. And the truth? Doesn't really matter really - all that's
important is what people believe, especially in a country where news spreads
by word of mouth in the absence of TV or radio.
So now, the Maoists, who have been violently campaigning since before then
for the end of the monarchy and an agrarian state (alarmingly similar in
aims and methods to the Khmer Rouge actually) are stronger than ever.
They're getting money from somewhere, but no-one is sure where - officially
China have disowned them, and they're not getting that much from robbing
banks. Some people in Nepal even think the king is giving them money,
because as long as the rebellion continues, he has an excuse to maintain
absolute power.
18 months ago, the king diosolved parliament for not controlling the Maoists
and being corrupt (and they were). So now the politcal parties are also
campaigning against both the King and the Maoists. And every week there's a
national strike called by one or the other, which paralyses the country and
destroys the economy.
In the meantime, things keep getting worse. Hundreds have been killed this
year on both the Maoist side and in the army and amongst civilians. And the
only thing rescuing the country from all-out civil war is that most of the
population don't support the King OR the Maoists OR the parties.
Nepal is just another example of why democracy isn't always the best answer
for a country, no matter what the US government would have us believe...
Anyways, enough politics. Wasn't that in the list rules once upon a time, no
talk of politics? Oh well, nobody is talking about anything else these
days...
So, I'll get back to travelling. I love this lifestyle. I've been in four
countries since last I wrote. I love the hot, sticky weather. I love the
challenge of crossing a road in Saigon, or breathing in Kathmandu, or not
freezing to death at Everest Base Camp. I love the people you meet, from all
over the world (well apart from one nationality, best not say but anyone
who's ever backpacked will know...). I love the challenges of putting up
with the touts and con-artists without losing your temper. I love the food,
and the sounds and smells (apart from the smell of the Durian fruit,
obviously). I love the stamps in my passport. I don't love the fact that on
the 3rd of July I've got to fly home...
Big Stu
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